The Mirror & the Light & the Hats
We all have our obsessions — for Kendra, it’s 18th-century hair; for some of you, it’s horses; for me, it’s 16th-century hats (and kind of hair, but that’s not seen much because of the hats).
The latest installment of Wolf Hall: The Mirror & The Light delivers quite the upgrade in headgear since I was shocked and appalled by the headband-style French hoods that previously graced our screens. With the new series, thankfully, the costume designers have stepped up their game.
French Hoods in Wolf Hall
The French hood is a crescent-shaped hat worn midway back on a woman’s head, covering all but the very front of her hair. In previous seasons, I called out the inaccuracies of these hats, which often appeared more like glorified headbands instead of the sophisticated French hoods they’re supposed to represent. However, this time around, many of the headpieces enhance the overall aesthetic that defines the courtly attire of the period.
Headgear accuracy ranges from impressive depictions, especially among main characters, to some questionable choices for background figures. For example, a prominent lady-in-waiting dons a beautifully crafted hood, creating a striking silhouette. However, those with lesser speaking roles seem to wear hoods recycled from earlier designs, much to my dismay.
The Evolution of Headgear
Moving from series one to series two, it is apparent that the costume team, including lead designer Joanna Eatwell, has taken steps to address the previous complaints. This clever update shines through, especially when analyzing various layers and decorative elements affixed to the modern styles.
Historically, these hoods featured intricate crawls of fabric, yielding a flat appearance that belied their layered design. This is crucial; unlike last seasons’ wake-up-call design blunders, this season’s hats, while not perfect, provide a more feasible representation of 16th-century fashion.
Such detailed attention to historical portrayal fuels the desire from both fans and newcomers for garments that don’t just tell a story through the characters but also embody the very ethos of the time they represent. The variability in quality among these headpieces is striking, with some nailed down with incredible precision and others appearing embarrassingly fudged.
Is anyone out there as into 16th-century headgear as I am? If so, prepare to be impressed, or at the very least, entertained by this journey through hats! This season’s costumes successfully reflect an improvement over past portrayals, enhancing the visual narrative beautifully, while leaving room for further exploration and perhaps a touch of nitpickery for us costume aficionados. The evolution of these hats speaks volumes about commitment to craft and authenticity, filling us with hope that future productions will only improve as they continue to respect the intricate tapestry of our historical wardrobe!